上周三，美国时尚品牌Calvin Klein(以下简称CK)宣布将关闭其高端成衣时装系列业务，这意味着CK将不再是时装周T台的常客。相反，它将专注于现有的业务，包括牛仔和内衣等大众时尚系列。
“可以确定CK 205W39NYC的业务即将关闭，”该公司告诉法新社。时尚界评论称，这是Calvin Klein一个时代的终结。此前，CK于1月份宣布关闭了其在纽约曼哈顿麦迪逊大道的CK 205W39NYC品牌旗舰店。去年底，该品牌首席创意官拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)离职。该公司在1月份表示，计划重新打造该品牌，并正在寻找继任者。据报道，CK现在决定完全终止该系列，关闭其纽约门店，在纽约和意大利米兰裁员100人。该公司还计划关闭其米兰办事处。
一切要从拉夫·西蒙斯出人意料的离职说起。西蒙斯曾经在Dior、Jil Sander等品牌担任设计师。CK母公司PVH于2016年从迪奥(Dior)“引进”这位比利时设计师，期待重振该品牌。在来到CK后，西蒙斯将其成衣线品牌名称从CK Collection更名为CK 205W39NYC。去年，PVHCEO伊曼纽尔·基里科公开表示，“对在CK 205W39NYC业务上的投资没有回报感到失望”后不久，西蒙斯选择了离职，提前终止了原定于今年8月结束的合同。
一位知情人士向媒体证实，该品牌仍计划为贵宾们设计红毯礼服，并正在寻找一位设计师来负责这一领域以及其他类别的设计工作。目前CK还没有决定是否会在9月的纽约时装周上亮相。该消息人士表示，该品牌“并没有放弃令人向往的产品，而是从另一个角度看待它”。
西蒙斯于2016年加入该公司，被赋予对旗下品牌的完全创意控制权，包括Calvin Klein Collection、Calvin Klein Platinum、Calvin Klein、Calvin Klein牛仔裤、Calvin Klein内衣和Calvin Klein Home，目标是将它们统一在一个愿景下。除了改变成衣线品牌名称，他还与建筑师斯特林·鲁比(Sterling Ruby)合作，对其在纽约曼哈顿麦迪逊大道的旗舰店进行了彻底升级改造。
西蒙斯的设计和创意指导使该品牌成为纽约时装周受期待的时装秀之一。他发起了以卡戴珊家族为特色的高调广告推广活动。然而，该公司未能实现老板们所期望的财务业绩。2018年第三季度，税前利润从去年同期的1.42亿美元降至1.21亿美元，而收入同比增长2%，至9.63亿美元。
据外媒报道，上周三，CK首席执行官史蒂夫·谢尔曼表示，仍计划创建“梦寐以求”的产品，或将参考和使用同样也是PVH旗下的时尚品牌美国品牌Tommy Hilfiger的路线。该品牌以其成功的see-now、buy-now模式进军全球市场，举办大型时装秀，与吉吉·哈迪德和赞达亚等明星红人合作。
Calvin Klein to close luxury collections business American fashion brand to shut New York store and focus on denim and underwear
The American fashion brand Calvin Klein has announced that it is shutting its luxury collections business，meaning Calvin Klein will no longer be a fixture on the fashion week runway.It will instead focus on its existing categories， including denim and underwear.
“I can confirm that the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC business is closing，”the company told AFP. It’s the end of an era at Calvin Klein.The news comes after the brand shuttered its 205W39NYC label in January，following the departure of its chief creative officer，Raf Simons，the prior month.After Simons’ exit，the company said in January that it planned to rebrand the line and was looking for a successor. Its decision to now terminate the collection entirely，as well as close its New York store，will reportedly result in 100 redundancies across New York and Milan in Italy. There are also plans to close its Milan office.
It comes after the unexpected departure of Calvin Klein’s creative director Raf Simons-formerly of Christian Dior and Jil Sander-late last year. PVH brought in Belgian designer from Dior in 2016 to revitalize the brand.The designer，who changed the category’s name from Calvin Klein Collection to Calvin Klein 205W39NYC，cut short his contract which was due to end this August shortly after the CEO of parent company PVH Corp，Emanuel Chirico，said he was“disappointed by the lack of return on our investments in our Calvin Klein 205W39NYC halo business.”
A source familiar with the situation said that the brand still plans to dress VIPs for the red carpet and is looking for one person to take on design responsi**lities for this as well as the remaining categories. It has not yet been decided if it will have a presence at New York fashion week in September.The source said that the brand “wasn’t walking away from aspirational product， but looking at it through a different lens”.
Simons，who joined the company in 2016，was given total creative control of its lines，including Calvin Klein Collection，Calvin Klein Platinum，Calvin Klein，Calvin Klein Jeans，Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home，with the objective to unify them under one vision. In addition to changing the name，he completely refitted the Madison Avenue flagship in New York in a collaboration with the architect Sterling Ruby.
Simons’ designs and creative direction for the house set the agenda for the season’s fashion trends， making the brand one of the most anticipated shows of New York fashion week. He created high-profile advertising campaigns featuring the Kardashian family. It is said to have failed，however，to deliver the financial results bosses were seeking. In the third quarter of 2018，pre-tax earnings fell to $121m，compared with$142m for the same period a year earlier，while revenues increased 2% to $963m over the year.
On Wednesday，reports suggested that Calvin Klein’s CEO，Steve Shiffman，still plans to create“aspirational” products，possibly along the same lines as fellow American brand Tommy Hilfiger， which is also owned by PVH Corp. The company travels the world with its successful see-now， buy-now model， staging large-scale fashion shows that feature collaborations with high-profile celebrities including Gigi Hadid and Zendaya.
南都记者 张沛 综合整理自 法新社 卫报 WWD businessrecorder
